The course I’m doing consists of a series of demonstrations and sewing is done at home between the classes. There’s lots to take in, but it’s all great stuff.
It was interesting to know that design elements that look straight on the body are actually not straight on the pattern piece. Even stitching the jetted pocket ‘little triangles’ - you sew slightly curved, but it appears straight on the right side.
We learnt how to sew open darts. Cutting them through the middle and sewing it as a seam, with a few centimetres short of the apex. The seam of the dart is pressed open and then the remaining folded part is flattened down the middle and pressed flat also.
We were also shown how to finish a dart at the apex to create a more smooth shaped finish that isn’t blunt. About 1cm from the apex - sewing slightly curved in, and then along the fold and running off at the apex (to twist the end threads). The tutor’s demo version really did look lovely.
I decided to get my own pattern, which I’ll adapt so I can add the features I need to practice the techniques from class.
The tutor sews without pins and doesn’t chalk the dart sewing lines - it’s very impressive.
One of the jetted pockets (above).
Both the jetted and welt pocket techniques were done in a method new to me. Pockets are a bit like fabric origami.
The out breast pocket is a welt pocket (above). It sits on the right side on a woman’s jacket. The welt piece is canvased.
To make all the pieces for the pockets we chalk directly to the fabric. It feels quite liberating - that direct connection with the cloth. We also use the edge of the foot for the seam allowances, so there isn’t constant trimming of excess fabric.
The wool flannel is really lovely to work with. It’s really soft and slightly springy, and shapes so well.